After spending the night in the desert south and east of Yerington, I packed up my camp and set out further down in the same direction. It was one of those mornings where the air felt thin, clean, and just cool enough to make you glad you’d packed an extra shirt.
The desert can be cruel, no doubt about it, but it can also lull you into thinking it’s your friend. That’s what makes it dangerous, its shifting moods, its way of hiding things in plain sight.
I wasn’t looking for anything in particular, just stretching my legs, letting the stillness of the wide-open spaces do its work on me. Folks will tell you there’s nothing out there but sagebrush, jackrabbits, and dust devils.
But anyone who’s lived in Nevada knows that isn’t quite true. There’s a weight to that land, like it’s carrying secrets older than the people who walk across it.
And if you wander far enough, sometimes those secrets start looking back.
From the top of a rise, I spotted what I thought was a man.
Too far away to make out a face, but his outline was human enough. He stood there, upright, still as stone.
I stopped, gave a wave just to be polite, and he lifted his head like he’d seen me, too. But he didn’t wave back, and he didn’t take a step in my direction. Just stood there, looking.
Now, most folks you meet in the desert are either lost, broke down, or friendly enough to swap a little water and conversation. So when a man doesn’t move, doesn’t holler back, it sets a tickle of unease in your gut.
I told myself it was nothing and kept going forward, downhill into a wash that cut through the scrub. Every so often, I’d glance up and see the figure again on the ridge.
Still there. Still staring.
It wasn’t until the sun shifted higher that I realized something strange. What I’d first taken for clothes wasn’t fabric at all.
It was paint, blue, smeared across his chest and arms, stark against the desert sand. His face came into view next, though calling it a face doesn’t sit quite right.
He was wearing an animal skull, long and narrow. The same blue paint streaked across the bone, glowing faintly like it held its own light.
I stopped dead in my tracks, trying to decide whether I should be afraid or laugh it off as some eccentric out there playing shaman in the desert. People get up to all sorts of strange rituals when nobody’s around to watch.
But something in my bones told me this wasn’t just eccentricity. The way he tilted his head, the stillness of his stance, it was wrong. Not human wrong, but like an echo that doesn’t line up with the shout.
Then he leaned forward, and before I could blink, he started quick-walking at me. He wasn’t running exactly, but moving fast, with a kind of deliberate, jerky momentum that closed the distance faster than I liked.
My gut clenched, and I did what any man with sense would do, backed up a step, then turned downhill and started running.
The ground wasn’t kind. Loose gravel and hidden holes waited for my boots.
I could hear him behind me, not the sound of footsteps exactly, but the scrape of something unnatural on the earth. It reminded me of bones dragging across rock. Every time I risked a glance, he was closer, the skull face bobbing up and down, the blue paint catching the sun like fire.
Then my boot caught on a rock, and I went tumbling, rolling five times over before coming up hard on my side. The air left my lungs in a rush.
For a heartbeat, I couldn’t move. My hands scrabbled in the dirt, looking for anything to hold, anything to fight with, because I could feel it nearly on top of me.
That’s when my fingers closed around something smooth and solid. I lifted it and saw I’d grabbed a single deer antler, sun-bleached and half-buried in the sand.
Maybe it was luck, or it was the desert handing me a weapon. Either way, I had no time to think.
As I pulled myself to my feet, he was already springing. Not running, not lunging, springing, like a mountain lion that had been crouching for the kill. That skull face bore down on me, blue streaks and all, and I raised the antler without thinking, bracing it like a spear.
He landed right on it, the point driving into his solar plex, but instead of the thud of flesh meeting bone, there was nothing, nothing but a sharp hiss and a sudden burst of blue mist. He vanished, dissolved into smoke that curled around me, cool and damp against my skin.
The antler dropped from my hands, clattering on the rocks. When I looked down, there was nothing. Not a footprint, not a drop of blood, not even a shard of paint.
I stood there shaking, trying to catch my breath, waiting for the thing to reform, for the nightmare to continue. But the desert was silent again.
The only sound was the wind moving through the sage. My heart was beating so loud I could feel it in my ears.
Some part of me wanted to stay, to look around, to make sense of what I’d just seen. Another part, the wiser, louder part, said no.
No answers out here, just more questions. And I didn’t care to be around when the blue walker decided to try again.
So I turned and marched as steady as I could back to my truck. I didn’t run.
I wanted to. But I forced myself not to, like a man walking out of a poker game with his last dime still in his pocket, afraid that if he moved too quickly the whole sky would fall on him.
By the time I reached the truck, the sun was high and hot, the kind of heat that makes the hood of a car shimmer. I tossed my gear in the back, climbed in, and sat there with my hands on the steering wheel, staring at nothing.
The antler, I’d left it behind. I couldn’t say why, except it didn’t feel like mine to take.
I drove home, dust trailing behind me, not stopping till I hit pavement again. And though the day passed and the night came, I couldn’t shake the image of that skull-faced figure, painted blue and walking fast, too fast, across the desert.
Now, you can chalk this up to heatstroke, or imagination, or some desert hermit who vanished into the sage. Maybe that’s all it was.
But I’ll tell you what I know. I’ve spent plenty of nights under the Nevada sky, and I’ve seen coyotes circle, mountain lions prowl, and lightning strike dry earth so hard it split.
But I’ve never seen anything like that blue-painted walker. And I’ve never gone camping in that stretch of desert again.
Some places ain’t meant for tents and campfires. Some belong to older stories, and if you’re smart, you acknowledge them, respect them, and pass right on by.