A year or so ago, someone shared a diary entry with me. I’ve thought about it often since, like a dream you keep trying to re-enter.
Yesterday, I finally saw Mark Twain’s chair. It looked like a doll’s dollhouse furniture, brittle, breakable, just a few old sticks pegged together.
I suppose people were smaller back then, small enough to fit in such chairs and fume out such tall tales. Perhaps Twain himself was a slight man, delicate in body, which might be why he couldn’t make it in mining or fighting.
We were lying in bed when a happy, jubilant Mexican music came pouring through the window.
“A mariachi band in town!” we thought.
Quickly, we dressed and hit the streets. We looked everywhere—every saloon, every bar, both sides of the road. We found plenty of merriment and country dance music, even Johnny Cash on the jukebox and some silent riders in buffalo coats with showy, clanking spurs—but no Mexican music.
Disappointed, we turned homeward through the fading light. Then we heard it again.
There it was! The doors to the Territorial Enterprise flung wide open, Mexican music pouring out, along with dust, rubble, and a thick mist. Inside, two workers in dust masks stood on scaffolding, pounding away at the building’s insides.
Before long, the owner, Tom, with a mustache and a booming voice, appeared. He led me upstairs into a crumbling castle, a fortress of imagination.
There, among broken walls and exposed brick, stood a single long, gold-framed mirror almost reaching the ceiling. I took a self-portrait and caught a view of Virginia City I had never seen before, through the windows of the Territorial Enterprise.
Downstairs, one crystal chandelier still hung. It was better kept than Sam Clemens’ little desk in the corner, pushed up against the spot where he once worked. That tiny chair of doll-sticks. He must have had a slender frame. People were so much smaller then.
And maybe his sensibility was delicate too, not in the hauty, “haven’t lived yet” way of the modern easily-offended, but in a deep, human way. Hypocrisy seared him because he wanted better for us.
He could see it everywhere, so he chose the most loving way to point it out: with humor. He made us laugh, and that’s how you know there was love in his critique. I imagined this delicate man, with great wisps of hair, smoke, and eyebrows, sitting in that chair.
The moment I entered, my cameras fell apart. Upstairs, while trying to photograph the chandelier amid the rubble, the viewfinder on my camera popped off, rolled across the old ashen plank floor, and, boom, straight through the only hole in the boards, like an eight ball in a corner pocket.
It’s a $250 part. The camera’s useless without it.
I ran downstairs. “Where the hell could it be in this dimly lit pile of rubble and Mexican music?” I muttered.
I don’t believe in ghosts, but things had been falling on my head ever since I stepped inside.
“We’ll find it,” said Tom.
And by God, I did, pretty quickly, in fact.
Broken pieces of the old printing press jutted from the shattered walls, elegant and formidable like giant iron spirits rising from brick. They reminded me of Greek and Roman statues, headless, limbless, yet still standing. Down in the basement, among the rubble and half-forgotten artifacts, stood Mark Twain’s desk.
Immediately, my light meter gave out. I tried to capture a moment of Tom laughing on the stairway, his broad grin and deep mustache, but the meter was stuck on an overexposed reading. By the time I clicked the shutter, his smile was gone. Only the spindly wooden stairs remained, casting scary-movie shadows in the dim light.
What was I to do in this cavern of forlorn objects? There was an 1800s payroll machine, Mark Twain’s desk, relics of the past, and my newly tuned cameras betraying me one after another. I swapped batteries from one to the other, but dammit, I had no nickel to open the compartment.
I’d left home with my festive best, a trimmed-down camera bag, and apparently none of the essentials. Somewhere in this room full of history, there had to be a scrap of metal to fit the slot.
I searched the back room. There, a bag of metal bits.
And then, two mummies. Full human mummies, one wrapped in a black garbage bag to avoid scaring people, the other in a large wooden drawer.
I grabbed what I needed, twisted the battery lid, and suddenly, one of the batteries sprang out and disappeared on the floor. Now I was down on my hands and knees, flashlight in my phone, sweating, hoping Tom didn’t catch me rummaging through relics.
Finally, I got the batteries in. But the camera still didn’t work. It wasn’t the battery; it was the camera itself. I rewound and removed the good film, switched it to the other camera, all while batteries, lids, screws, and film threatened to leap from my hands.
“Oh no, ghost of Mark Twain, or whoever you are,” I thought. “I’m here. I’m doing this. I’m real, and I’m winning no matter what. You’re not getting another piece of my camera.”
Well, I did lose one more little battery to the floor, but fine—you can have it, ghost. No loss.
With the camera I didn’t want to use, now loaded with good film, I got one shot—just in case I never get to come back. Meanwhile, brick walls shuddered with dust and debris with each hammer blow above Mark Twain’s little corner.
Daylight faded. Tom wanted to go home to his family. The workers needed their rest.
“You can come back any time,” said Tom as he locked up. “We can even get you the code to the front door.”
I haven’t seen him since.