Old Vegas is a shrine to the deranged, a gaudy cathedral of chaos where dreams slither through the gutter in neon technicolor. I touched down on Fremont Street for a few days of disjointed reverie, drawn by the glow of lights that don’t sleep, lights that lure fools, the dangerously curious, into a world that hasn’t realized it died years ago.
It isn’t the sterilized gloss of the Strip—no, this is the real Vegas. Raw. Sinful. Beautiful in its corroded way. I made my pilgrimage to Atomic Liquors, where ghosts and degenerates share the same barstool.
It is Hunter’s old haunt. Vegas’s oldest bar. Back when men sipped bourbon and watched the sky boil over with mushroom clouds from the roof like it was the goddamned Fourth of July.
I slid through the door, armed with a spade and a thirst for trouble.
Somewhere beneath this sanctuary of hooch and atomic nostalgia lay the remnants of something holy—Hunter S. Thompson’s billfold and keys, entombed in the dirt like a relic from a more glorious, unhinged age. But first, whiskey. Always whiskey.
The barkeep pours as if sensing I was on some idiotic mission. The kind that gets you jailed, killed, or immortalized in a footnote of lunacy. I wasn’t sure which I preferred, but the whiskey made the question irrelevant. The air was thick with stories, the kind you don’t write down because nobody would believe them sober.
The spade stayed in my pocket for now, a quiet reminder that every journey has its moment of excavation. I’d dig when the time was right—when the whiskey had numbed the rational part of my brain and the neon haze outside blurred into something close to divine.
Somewhere out there, Hunter was laughing. I was sure of it.
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